Ebook Download , by Shaun Tomson Patrick Moser
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, by Shaun Tomson Patrick Moser
Ebook Download , by Shaun Tomson Patrick Moser
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Product details
File Size: 6908 KB
Print Length: 136 pages
Publisher: Pan Macmillan SA (February 23, 2017)
Publication Date: February 23, 2017
Sold by: Amazon Digital Services LLC
Language: English
ASIN: B06VWZRTK8
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Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#944,443 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store)
Although this book is slim in volume, the life lessons contained inside pack a wallop that far surpass many self-realization books many times its size. I bought a copy for myself and young son, read a few select chapters to him and had him fill out and discuss the "Twelve promises" section at the end. I will ensure that he doesn't forget these crucial pledges on his way to developing into the standup guy we want him to become.I have slowly read (absorbed) the book twice and will no doubt pick it up again to review and reinforce these wonderful life skills when warranted. The surfing adventures, pictures and (survived) hard knocks of this courageous man make this a highly satisfying, reflective and at times plaintive read, not to be hurried through. Through the decades I have marveled at Shaun Tomson's accomplishments in the water. On his way to being crowned world-champion, he conquered fears, marshalled considerable God-given talents and forever changed the art of big wave barrel riding at the dauntingly ominous Pipeline on the North Shore. I have been fortunate enough to meet Shaun and have spoken with him on a couple of occasions. His hunger for squeezing all out of life, appreciation for lessons learned on the way and humble attitude with earned successes come shining through in this book that I will never store away on some dusty shelf. More than just a GREAT READ, this book can change lives. I give it my highest recommendation.Al X. GrizAuthor, SWIM A CROOKED LINE
He was born Shaun Tomson in Durban, South Africa. As a Jewish athlete, he was inducted into the International Jewish Sports Hall of Fame in 1995. He learned to surf in the beachbreaks in and around Durban under the watchful eye of his father Ernie, and alongside older cousin Michael Tomson and brother Paul Tomson.Shaun attended school in Durban - Clifton Preparatory, Carmel College and the University of Natal where he received a Bachelor of Commerce degree majoring in Business Finance. Shaun went on to dominate amateur surfing competition in South Africa and began venturing over to Hawaii in the late 60's, courtesy of a barmitzvah present from his father. It was on one of these trips that an awestruck 14 year old Tomson eyewitnessed the so-called "Biggest Wave Ever Ridden" by Californian Greg Noll at Makaha in 1969. Hawaii's surf proved to be a daunting challenge for Shaun, but he continued to mature and train in South Africa's hollow waves, such as Cave Rock, the Bay Of Plenty, and Jeffrey's Bay.Shaun Tomson has been listed as one of the 25 most influential surfers of the century and as one of the 10 greatest surfers of all time. During his career he was both the youngest and oldest surfer to win a pro event and is considered to be one of the architects of professional surfing.Surfing and the Free Ride generationIn 1975, Shaun was an integral part of the "Free Ride" generation. Along with Australians Rabbit Bartholomew, Mark Richards, Ian Cairns, Peter Townend and Mark Warren, they rode the infamous waves along Oahu's legendary North Shore with a style, aggression, and raw courage unseen prior to their arrival. Collectively, these surfers changed the face of surfing and were the first to really apply themselves as serious professional surfers. With his good looks, eloquence, and undeniable athleticism, Tomson served by default as the face and voice of this movement, and he is still viewed as the prototype blueprint for today's pro surfer, with legions of fans throughout the world. Tomson won the highly coveted IPS World Championship in 1977.On a performance level, Tomson completely changed the way the tube section of the wave was ridden, using a unique style of pumping and weaving through and around collapsing sections of the barrel. Even today, his electrifying performances at Off The Wall and Backdoor Pipeline stand the test of time. A memorable quote of his from the period was Time is expanded inside the tube. A very underrated aspect of Tomson's inventiveness was his in the tube punch throughs where he escaped unscathed from hideous closeout sections over a shallow reef.Shaun Tomson has appeared in many films including Free Ride, Fantasea, Many Classic Moments, and In God’s Hands. Tomson also co-produced an award winning full length feature film about the benchmark mid-70's surfing era called, "Bustin' Down The Door" which premiered in early 2008. He also wrote and narrated a documentary about Jeffreys Bay called "A Pure Line."Tomson is a board member and ambassador for Surfrider Foundation, the world’s largest environmental group dedicated to protecting the world’s oceans, waves and beaches. In 1984 he was the first professional surfer to become a member of the foundation and was Chairman of the Advisory board. In 2002 he received the Surf Industry Manufacturer Association Environmentalist of the Year Award for his environmental efforts.leclercq santa barbara
I remember going to the Gunston 500 as a young teenager and watching Shaun Tomson. Of course i had an enormous crush on him. As life changed for me, i often wandered what became of him. This story, his story is beyond amazing. His code for life should be told to all young people. Shaun, if you return to South Africa, i want to be there to hear you.
Good read for young people
This is a good inspiring read for anyone,It may even give you the stoke of surfing with no prior experiance, I know that's a bit of a stretch for the experienced Surfer! Either way the read is very motivational,and well written and can be applied to anyone's life.I know I will read this book several times before passing it along
AMAZING Book. I love it. For the surfer and non surfer. My son also loved it and he is 13. Just an amazing book.
4 stars because I really liked the book, but its very short. Shaun has an amazing story, both in his personal and professional life, and hearing some of his story's is definitely inspiring. Its a nice book to add to the collection, just wish there was more content.
Bought as a gift for my boyfriend, "Shaun" who was named after Shaun Tomson. My boyfriend surfs as well and really enjoyed this book. It was a nice surprise that the book was signed by Shaun Tomson as well!
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